|The complete Sea Hawk/Sea Perch configuration (shown without wires or zip ties)|
In this section you will learn how the Sea Hawk/Sea Perch platform is configured.
The Sea Hawk Skin, made of two layers of corrugated plastic, is zip tied to the endskeleton.
The otter boxes on the front deck, shown in red, hold the Arduinos and their corresponding motor shields and wireless transceivers. The one on the starboard side we designate for the Sea Hawk. The one on the port side we designate for the Sea Perch.
Up to 4 bi-directional DC motors with individual 8-bit speed selection (so, about 0.5% resolution)
Up to 2 stepper motors (unipolar or bipolar) with single coil, double coil, interleaved or micro-stepping. 2 connections for 5V 'hobby' servos connected to the Arduino's high-resolution dedicated timer - no jitter!"
We are using 3 Jameco bi-directional 0.6A DC motors for the Sea Perch and 4 servos; two of the servos (the one's opening and closing the claws) will be run off of the Adafruit, drawing their 5V power from the same 11.1 Volt battery that powers the Sea Perch motors. The two other servos, controlling the 'wrists' of the robotic claws, will be run from pins on the Arduino board and require their own battery sources (a separate battery pack for each servo).
On the right we see the begining of a motor shield for controlling the Sea Hawk propeller motors. This shield is not yet populated with all its electronic components and is used for illustration purposes only.
Instructions for building the motor shield can be found here:
The picture shows a green shield, my rendering shows a red shield (reminiscent of Spark Fun) but the real kit now comes in blue! Just sayin...
Below are some pictures of some of the infrastructural finishes for a floating moving craft:
|Here the motor mounts have been added to the Sea Perch at the 3 Tee positions.|
|It is a bit easier to see from the side. Note that the motor mounts are 3" pieces of 1/2 inch PVC with the top part of the last two inches cut out so the motors can be taped to them with duct tape.|
|We add the same motor mounts to the back Tees of the Sea Hawk endoskeleton.|
|At sunset, in the evening light, it the contrasting shadows make it easier to make out how the motor mounts are cut.|
|This picture was also taken when the sun was setting in the virtual world. You can clearly see how the motor mounts look and their ideal orientation.|
|The Sea Perch docked into the Sea Hawk with their motor mounts attached and with the Sea Hawk Skin attached.|
|The Sea Hawk frame with the two side bottle pontoons.|
|Here is the same angle as above but with the Sea Hawk skin added and the motos removed.|
|Here is the same picture as above, but with the Sea Hawk deck skin and the motors attached..|
Hooking up the Batteries:
|This image shows how the batteries would be hooked up if they were floating in outer space. But they aren't.|
|Here is how the 12V batteries that power the motors are hooked up to their respective motor shields.|
|Note that the Adafruit motor shield, used for powering the Sea Perch Motors, hooks up to the screw terminal on the side. Make sure and observe polarity so you don't blow things up!|
|Note that +M (for positive) and GND (for ground) are marked above the screw terminals on the circuit board.|
|In this close up you can see how the battery wires hook up to the Arduino Motor Shield.|
Our next series of pictures will show how the motors are hooked up to the Motor Shields. Stay tuned!